Halfway

Day 18

Miles hiked today: 16.9
Miles from Denver: 242.9
Elevation: 9,600 ft
Segments 13, 14
Landmarks: San Isabel National Forest, Mt. Princeton Hot Springs, Raspberry Gulch, Browns Creek, Sand Creek

VIEW MAP

The place I had camped last night was only a mile or so away from the biggest roadwalk on the trail so far. They have been unable to connect the trail through National Forest land or otherwise in this spot, so the result is a 5.5 mile road walk. One benefit of that road walk is that the "trail" goes right by Mt. Princeton Hot Springs.

The hot springs are naturally occurring in the river, and supposedly this was discovered by whites in the 1860s and developed into a resort, even though the Indians had known about it for generations. Today, it is much like going to a public swimming pool, except the pool temperature is in the 90's, or you can go down to the river.  There they have created little sitting areas along the side of the river, where the hot water comes out and can be up to 120 degrees fahrenheit, but mixes with the river water so it is just right. This is quite a thing to have along a trail, and I wasn't about to pass it by.

Admission was just 10 bucks, and kept me occupied for more than an hour. There were hardly any people there, even though I have been told that you had to wait quite a while for one of the spots along the river. They even allowed me to put my pack behind the main desk where they could keep an eye on it. After soaking for a time, I went next door to the Mt. Princeton Resort and Restaurant, where I was seated at an outdoor table on a beautiful day. I was told that today's special was the BLT with avocado and chipotle sauce plus fries for 7 bucks. This was quite within reason, so in no time I was enjoying that as well. This place really isn't half bad.

I got back on the trail, I mean road around 1 pm, and intended to make some miles yet today. First I had to navigate a couple more miles worth of roads, which for whatever reason aren't marked very well for CT users. Eventually the trail got off the busy highway and onto a very ancient road along the Chalk River, which had dozens of nice properties and bed and breakfasts. I learned a little later at the trailhead that this community is called St. Elmo, and is an old mining town. The nice houses there would have been miner's shacks at one point or the other.

About this time the clouds got really ugly, and a pretty good thunderstorm opened up. I was thankful to be down low along the river, because the thunder was directly overhead. It was a fast moving storm, and pretty soon I was shielding my eyes from the blinding sun and blue sky yet still getting pelted with rain. Soon the storm moved on entirely, but it wouldn't be the last of the day.

Soon after the road brought me to actual trail again, and I was able to once again walk without being passed by cars. The trail climbed about 800 feet to Raspberry Gulch, from the top of which I could see quite a ways south to where I was going. This next 20 miles of trail is low country, where the trail makes away from the Sawatch Range and down towards Salida, after which I will again climb the Continental Divide. Salida is also the halfway point, but technically I would pass the true halfway point today.

I aimed for a campsite listed in the data book, and as the evening drew late I arrived to find two thru hikers already there. They were nice guys, and bade me to set up my tent and even cooked hot water for my dinner. I learned within a few minutes that one of these guys, Steve, is the Chairman of the Colorado Trail Foundation. It was very interesting talking to him about the hard work that goes into this trail, the volunteer hours and the politics that surround trying to draw a continuous line through the state of Colorado. They were hiking in the opposite direction so that they could meet more thru- hikers, as something like 95 percent of us start in Denver and walk west. He said I was number 99 or 100 that they have run into.

I am halfway through now, and hope to finish the rest of the trail in right around 2 weeks. Tomorrow I will reach Salida, the last town before the really high country, and the resupply before a really big section of 90 miles between towns. So far I have been at 9 or 10 thousand feet with a few visits above 11 thousand. For the rest of the trail I will stay above 11, and even visit 13 thousand feet.

Buena Vista

Day 17

Miles hiked today: 9.3
Miles from Denver: 226
Elevation: 9,600 ft
Segment 13
Landmarks: San Isabel National Forest, Buena Vista, Middle Cottonwood Creek, South Cottonwood Creek, Dry Creek

VIEW MAP

I didn't sleep well in the hotel bed last night. Actually there were 3 beds, as I got the only vacant room in all of Buena Vista, due to a cancellation, and it was a "suite." (This saved me from stealth camping in the city park). I realized once I woke up in the morning that part of the problem was there was just no circulation or ventilation whatsoever. The other problem was that I'm now used to sleeping in my tent.

This being Sunday, I had plans to make it to a church while I'm in town. I was hoping to do that up in Breckenridge as well, but it just didn't work out. So I found Cornerstone Church on google, and figured out the service was at 10:30. This gave me plenty of time to walk next door and get some breakfast, then walk to the north end of town to the outfitter, and finally back south to where the church was.

I devoured a monster breakfast burrito smothered in chili and sour cream, as well as a side of biscuits and gravy from Ponchos, the same place I ate last night. It barely phased me. I was very glad that the outfitter was open at 9, as I had sent a package there. This is the best outfitter I've seen yet on the trail, and I bought one particular item that I have been in great need of. Finally, I made my way back in to town.

This church was really incredible, and several people there took me in like family. I went to services a couple of times when I was on the AT, and you certainly draw a lot of attention to yourself when you have a backpack strapped on and two pointy poles sticking above your head. Thankfully, I had showered and done laundry last night so the congregation was spared the true thru-hiker experience.

I ended up sitting by a couple named Gary and Lucy, who turned out to be real good people. They invited me to lunch after the service, and pretty soon I was at the Red Rooster seated with 4 generations of this one family, from 5 years old up to 90. We had a great time, and I felt like I had been adopted for the afternoon. Finally it was time for everyone to go, and Gary was nice enough to drive me the 10 miles out to the trail, even though they had to get to Denver. Thank you Gary and Lucy, and to all the rest of the people I met today for your hospitality. What a wonderful stop this was in Buena Vista. (Before I forget, it seems that Buena Vista, CO has the same controversy as Buena Vista, VA. It seems that if you're a local, you pronounce it Boo-ena Vista. If you learned any Spanish, its Buena Vista.)

Very soon I was on trail, with 37 miles to get to Salida. I've decided that I'm not going to do this section as fast as I possibly can, which is one reason why I spent a half day in Buena Vista. There is a place called Mt. Princeton Hot Springs that I will encounter tomorrow, which I hear has pools and hot tubs and even hot springs in the middle of the river. Seems like a must stop to me. For tonight, it was a very pleasant couple hours of hiking. I am still wrapping around all the foothills, overlooking the vast valley on my left of the Arkansas River below. US 285 has taken the place of US 24 down there, and if I wanted I could take 285 north all the way to Jefferson, where I was on day 5 or so of this hike.

I found a beautiful campsite near the roaring, and badly named Dry Creek. I'm excited because I discovered another subtlety of this tent, which allows me to pitch it more taught. I may need that, because it is threatening rain for tonight, and possibly tomorrow as well.

Mt. Harvard and Mt. Yale

Day 16

Miles hiked today: 18.7
Miles from Denver: 216.7
Elevation: 9,360 ft
Segments 12,13
Landmarks: San Isabel National Forest, Collegiate Peaks Wilderness, Mt. Harvard, Mt. Yale, Buena Vista

VIEW MAP

I woke up this morning with the goal in mind of getting to CR-306, nearly 19 miles away. If I got there, I would be able to hitch to Buena Vista, my next resupply stop and a much needed shower and laundry. My decision last night to stop before the second climb of Mt. Harvard would make this a difficult proposition. Just looking up the Pine Creek corridor of monster mountains made me feel small, much less thinking of climbing over them.

I got going about 8 am; I still can't get out of camp any faster than about an hour after I wake up. Segment 12 included climbing the shoulder of Mt. Harvard at 11,800 ft, again to the east of the 14,420 ft peak. After that the trail starts a long 9 mile descent to the North Cottonwood Creek. I hoped to complete this by noon or 1 pm, because the next section involved a 2,400 ft climb up Mt. Yale. This was to be a big day.

In the end I was glad that I didn't climb Mt Harvard yesterday, because I never saw the side trail I would have been looking for for the campsite. I could only get oblique views of Mt. Harvard; the problem with climbing a mountain is it is a poor way to take a picture of it. Looking back I thought I could see all the way to Twin Lakes.

The nine mile descent took me past stream after stream, and there was a vast valley to the east which contained Buena Vista and US 24. I truly was on the edge of the Sawatch range, looking down on a vast plain, with another mountain range growing up from the far side.

When I got down to the road it was decision time. I had lunch and got some water, and it was already past 2 pm. I was already tired, but a night in a hotel room and some town food sounded mighty good. So I started to climb. Mt. Yale is 14,196 ft, and the trail crosses at a saddle at 11,880. There is a 2 mile side trail that will take you to the top, but this is not the regular trail to the peak, which approaches from the south, and requires a lot of rock scrambling. I am still not in full thru-hiker shape. I remember hearing somewhere that after about 6 weeks of hiking, you'll be in the best shape possible. On the AT, that means once you get into Virginia. Here on the CT, that means once you're done. So I struggle up the climbs, stopping every 30 feet or so to catch my breath.

Climbing up Mt. Yale

From a distance it looks as if the trail might go over the saddle above tree line, however it didn't. So when I got to the top, I couldn't see the peaks that loomed right over my head. However, the vantage point did provide a great view of the next mountain to the south. The descent was very steep, and there were several spots where they had cut the trail right into the side of a gravel slope.

Mt. Princeton to the south

I got to the road before 6 pm, which was pretty good. I crossed the road, stuck out my thumb, and the very first vehicle pulled over. This is a personal record. The guy's name was Duane, and he hiked the CT a few years ago. More trail magic! He wasn't even planning on going into town, but he was willing to drive me in and drop me at the grocery store. Within a short amount of time I was clean, fed and watching Denver news, which seems so irrelevant to me on so many levels right now.

The climb down